Sunday, December 25, 2011

Pupusa Salvadorena - El Salvadoran, Santa Rosa

1403 Maple Ave, Santa Rosa CA
(707) 544-3141
Parking: in parking lot

Last Visited: December 28, 2006

Food: 3 to 4 stars
Atmosphere: 2 to 3 stars
Service: 3 stars
Price: $ to $$

I had never heard of a pupusa until recently. Working in a company with a lot of folks with Hispanic origin has allowed me to enjoy a number or new feasts for the eyes when it comes to the cafeteria and watching what everyone eats for lunch. It’s especially fun watching what everyone brings for potluck days. As you drive on Highway 12 from Farmers Lane towards Sebastopol, you’ll see the business off to the right side next to 7-Eleven. I knew I needed to stop in there one of these days, and having my coworker tell me what a pupusa is really made it that much more appealing.

A pupusa is often described as two corn tortillas sandwiched together and stuffed with pork, cheese, squash, beans, or the like. It has a comfort food feeling about it with the warm dough reminding me a lot of Chinese green onion pancakes, though less fried and not as glutinous.

When I arrived, I seated myself and was quickly brought a menu. The place is painted a bright blue with three booths with red benches on both sides of the restaurant. Tables fill in the center. Around the room, you see pictures of El Salvador. It’s a casual place, and from what I’ve heard, the owner used to make the same pupusas for her friends to eat and decided to start her own business. It’s great to know you’re supporting small business owners.

The waitress was friendly and asked me if I was ready to order and wanted anything to drink. Since I was waiting for friends, I told her I would have some water and wait to order. She was very kind, checking in on me until friends got there, and when we had questions about how we should order, she made recommendations about how many pupusas to get and that we should consider our empanada as dessert rather than a main dish.

Each item is plated separately, and she announced the food upon arrival. We were given salsa (in a container that you would normally see containing maple syrup) and a bowl of curtido to share. The curtido is pickled cabbage, carrots, and some chili flakes. It’s fairly mild in flavor. I started to think about how the curtido seems like a less spicy version of kim chee, though for the curtido, the cabbage is sliced thin.

- Pupusa Revuelta – Pork – This pupusa is filled with ground pork. It’s juicy on the inside, though not bursting, and is lightly grilled on the outside. Very good. $1.75

- Pupusas de Ayote con Queso – My coworker suggested I try this one out. It contains squash (zucchini perhaps?) which provides a nice texture contrast compared to the cheese with which it is paired. It’s got a slightly more al dente mouth feel than the pupusa revuelta. $1.75

I had originally ordered a pupusa containing rice and beans, but when I made the switch to the squash and cheese pupusa, the waitress smiled told me that this one was a better choice.

- Empanada Plantanos con Leche – This is a fried plantain with cream inside. It’s an interesting texture since the outside is crispy, then it’s softer, and the center is even softer. The cream was different than what I expected, but it wasn’t too sweet. Good. $1.50

The salsa helps flavor the pupusa and the curtido gives it a nice balance so that the grilled food is balanced with something vinegar in flavor. This is common in Asian cooking as well, not to mention German with their sauerkraut.

Prices at Pupusa Salvadorena are outrageously low. You can hear the making of the pupusas in the back from the sound of the dough being slapped between someone’s hands as it is formed. It’s home style cooking in a low key environment, and it’s comfort food. The simple menu provides some great treats. Check this place out.

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Bottega - Italian, Yountville

Best: Creamy Polenta Under Glass

6525 Washington Street, Yountville CA 94599
(707) 945-1050
Parking: in parking lot
Lunch: Tues - Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5pm-9:30pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-10pm
http://www.botteganapavalley.com/

Last Visited: December 17, 2011

Food: 4 to 5 stars
Atmosphere: 3 to 4 stars
Service: 4 to 5 stars
Price: $$ to $$$$

After recent experiences at Food Network chef restaurants (Morimoto Napa and Tyler Florence's Rotisserie and Wine), I was starting to think that I should stop going to these pricy restaurants because I just wasn't happy with what I was getting.  When I shared these experiences with friends, my coworker Brent said that Michael Chiarellos' was different because Chiarello is actually there and able to maintain the quality of his restaurant's food while the others tend to leave their name on the restaurant, but are rarely seen.  Since Brent's a fellow foodie, I trusted his suggestion and decided to make the trip to Bottega.  While I enjoy watching all three programs that feature these chefs, I have a weak spot for Italian food, so it was a fairly easy decision to make.

When you enter the shopping complex, you can visit Chiarello's shop, Napa Style, featuring some of his own products as well as some of his fellow Food Network chef's products too.  Located across from Bottega, you can easily stock up on gray salt, a prominently featured item on his show, or marinated olives.  If you arrive early, you might even consider picking up some bread from the Bouchon Bakery, located across the street. 

We arrived a little early for our reservation and were quickly seated.  The hostess staff could be a little warmer, but they were efficient.  We were seated in the room immediately behind the hostess station.  The bench seat on one side is lined with tables for two that are a bit too close together.  One can hear your neighbor's conversation without even straining, but aside from this, the brick walls, and warm earth tones of the decor are inviting and not at all stuffy.  The copper water cups are unique and add a uniqueness to the place setting.

When we had completed our order, we were given hot bread and a parmesan olive oil dipping sauce.  The parmesan chunks are plentiful and acts more like a spread for the crusty bread.  While we were waiting for the food to arrive, I even saw Chiarello bustling around, but he soon left the building for another engagement.

Our server, James, was very impressive.  Watching his demeanor with not only our table, but those around us, showed he was incredibly seasoned as a server, completely aware of the wine list and its offerings, as well as providing guidance for food selection to those whom asked.  It's been a long time since I've been served by someone as good as James.  He noticed I was taking pictures and even thanked me for enjoying my dishes both visually and taking our time to savor every bite.  Love that!

- Pesce Crudo - The fish special changes daily.  Three squares of yellowfin tuna are topped with a little marinated garnish and microgreens.  These are then placed on a brushed sauce of black trumpet mushrooms.  A drizzle of olive oil tops the entire plate.  Each piece of tuna were incredibly fresh and had a really delicate flavor.  While the black trumpet sauce had a very strong mushroom flavor when eaten on its own, I found the overall flavor to be missing when eaten with the fish.  While visually appealing, I think the tuna would have been just perfect even without the black trumpet sauce.  Very good.  $15

- Monterey Calamari -  Calamari is lightly coated with arborio rice flour and served with a grilled lemon half and an aioli nero.  While the calamari was tender and lightly crisped and the black aioli was an interesting twist on the typical aiolis you see served with this dish, I found the quantity of calamari to be too small for the price.  Another 50% more would have seemed more reasonable for the price.  This is the right amount for one person, but not quite enough to share.  $10

- Polenta Under Glass - A mason jar arrives on a plate along with a small earthenware pitcher containing balsamic game sauce.  Inside the mason jar is creamy polenta topped with a cheese topping that has been crisped/baked.  Caramelized mushrooms top the cheese.  We followed the chef's suggestion to mix all of the ingredients together and serve the mixture on the plate, then pour the balsamic game sauce on top.  The server shared that pouring all of the sauce into the glass would result in the sauce overpowering the polenta.  I've eaten quite a bit of polenta, and usually, I walk away from it disappointed.  However, this time, I found it amazingly exceptional.  The polenta is so fine-grained that you can barely taste the grains anymore.  The polenta has a pudding-like texture and the pieces of broken cheese crisp and mushrooms add a great textural element to each bite.  The mushrooms are full-flavored, and each bite is really delicious. This is a must try dish.  $12

- Pan Roasted Gnocchi - The gnocchi is browned on its side and cooked with autumn root vegetables.  It's placed next to a sauce of beautiful orange heirloom squash pesto and topped with grated Valley Ford Montasio.  A light coating of creamy sauce brings them all together.  The pan roasting really changes the texture of the gnocchi from puffy to slightly crisp on one side of the gnocchi.  The pan roasting adds a depth of flavor that I didn't know gnocchi could have.  While the first impression of the plate is colorful, but small in quantity, the richness of the dish reveals that the quantity is just right after all.  The root vegetables are petite and sweet, complementing the gnocchi well.  The pesto of butternut squash is also sweet, but not overpowering.  I played with eating the gnocchi in its light cream sauce as well as with combining the gnocchi with the squash sauce.  This was a fun to eat dish that I enjoyed a lot.  $17

- Smoked & Braised Natural Short Ribs whole grain mustard spaetzle, Sicilian pickles, quince paste & smokey horseradish jus - One good-sized short rib has meat that is super tender and really does fall off the bone.  Each bite is delectable and juicy.  The Sicilian pickles were alright, but I didn't care for the spaetzle.  If you like crunchy spaetzle, you will enjoy it a lot, but I found that the crunch made it sort of dry.  The short rib is delicious. $28

I had a great overall impression of Bottega.  The food is well done, though the portions tend to be on the smaller side.  The short rib should come with a vegetable and the calamari quantity could be increased at least by 50% more at these prices.  The pesce crudo, though wonderful, reads more Japanese than Italian in preparation and presentation.  The truffle parmesan fries, ordered by the table next to us, looked extremely inviting and is on my list to get the next time I come.  Service is really exceptional and you never feel rushed.  Most of the wait times between courses were short, but the wait time for the main entree was a bit longer than I would have liked.  Indeed, Bottega is worth a visit, and I hope to be back soon.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Pizzeria Capri - Sonoma

1266 Broadway, Sonoma CA 95476
(707) 935-6085
Parking: in shopping center parking lot

Last Visited: November 1, 2006

Food: 3 stars
Atmosphere: 2 to 3 stars
Service: 2 to 3 stars
Price: $$ to $$$

I haven’t been to Pizzeria Capri for more than ten years. The last time I went, they had just opened in Sonoma. We had brought a coupon – yes, those things really do get you in the door – and the staff’s reaction was so poor that we never went back despite its convenient location just a few miles from downtown.

Upon walking in the door, we were immediately directed to a seat. There isn’t a host, so it’s bit of a frantic hustle and bustle, but the lead waitress seems to have things under control. The rest of the staff is a bit flighty in comparison. More about this below.

The décor is simple. Older wooden tables, some with the finish rubbed off, simple chairs, and two televisions – the larger television is in the rear room and a smaller televisions is above the counter. A wall with openings separates the rooms. The large windows make the restaurant feel slightly bigger, and the yellow walls with brown trim gives the place a fresher look. However, the floor and the tables show the wear of the establishment, and the overall look is a bit dated. Pizzeria Capri is a great candidate for Restaurant Makeover, but it has its charm. Posters of past local events line the walls. After ordering the pizza, we saw the calamari and were tempted to try it.

- Fried Calamari – A plate comprised primarily of fried calamari rings and few tentacles is placed on top of a larger plate and served with two ramekins. One ramekin contains marinara sauce. The other contains ranch with a dollop of pesto sauce. The calamari is deep fried until the light batter is just golden and placed on a plate that has been lightly covered in chunky marinara sauce. Coarsely chopped parsley tops the dish. The calamari was tender and the coating was light and flaky. The sauces were more than ample, and we appreciated that since many places tend to skimp on dipping sauce. The pesto adds color and flavor to the ranch dressing. Very good. $8

- Pizza: Capri Special – There are a number of choices in pizza topping combinations. The Capri special didn’t list the specific toppings, but I figured it would be a combination of meat and vegetables. Our medium crust pizza (not thick, not thin) was topped with red sauce, cheese, bell peppers, green onions, mushrooms, sausage, pepperoni, salami, and olives. Great. The crust was crispy on bottom and the pizza had a nice flavor. It wasn’t too soggy nor too dry. It had just the right texture and dipping the crust in the ranch sauce from the calamari made it even better. $18 for medium

- Milk $2

As for the service, the young bus boy was a bit inexperienced. Although he took our individual plates when we had finished with our calamari, he didn’t take the main dish despite it being empty. He’s polite in asking if he may take your plate, but not quite experienced enough. Also, when he answered the phone when I initially called, he could have been more professional.

If you’re a local, look for coupons in the advertising mailer. There were many locals there, and the food is pretty good. Other entrees include standard pasta fare which is available a la carte or with choice of salad or soup.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

The Red Grape - Pizza, Californian, Sonoma

529 First Street West, Sonoma CA 95476
(707) 996-4103
Parking: small parking lot adjacent to the building complex and street parking
Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner at 11:30am

Last Visited: November 13, 2011

Food: 3 stars
Atmosphere: 3 stars
Service: 3 stars
Price: $$ to $$$

It's been a while since I've been to The Red Grape.  Touting itself as New Haven Pizza, I remember going there when it first opened about a decade ago and thinking what a different type of pizza it was offering compared to what you normally find in Sonoma. 

While the first visit was good, my second and third visits revealed a lot of pizzas with a burnt bottom or more burnt dough than I enjoy. After not going for a number of years, we decided to see what new things they might have to offer.

It's minimalistic with painted ceiling ducts, bare floor, and wood tables and chairs.  There is lots of natural lighting as two sides of the restaurant are comprised of a wall of windows. 

The menu offers red pizzas and white pizzas as well as monthly specials.  You'll also find sandwiches and appetizers such as arancini and polenta sticks.  While there are a number of Italian items, the menu seems very Californian offering items such as Southwestern chicken salad, pears and gorgonzola pizza, and the beach club, esssentially a BLT with turkey.  For today's lunch visit, we opted to try a pizza and sandwich.

- Red Pizza: Sonoma - Pepperoni, sausage, sautéed mushrooms, red onion, and jalapeno jack cheese top a thin crust pizza. The pizza was good - not overpowered by the toppings themselves or the weight of the toppings.  The crust was done nicely without the burnt  areas that I had encountered during past experiences. I would give the pizza three to four stars.  $14.75

- Cheesesteak Sandwich - Slow roasted thinly sliced steak, cheddar cheese, and red and yellow peppers, are placed on a traditional toasted sub roll with a horseradish aioli.  I appreciated the juiciness of the meat, but this isn't exactly a traditional cheesesteak. The combination of the peppers with the meat make each bite a bit sweet.  The horseradish aioli gives moisture, but the spiciness of the horseradish is lost because the peppers overpower the flavor.  The salad was fresh with cherry tomatoes, but I found the balsamic dressing to be too sweet.  Okay.  If it was given a different name, I wouldn't have had the same expectation as that of a cheesesteak and probably would have rated it higher.  The other weird thing was that there was chicken on this plate, and chicken isn't part of the sandwich.  $11.95

Service is attentive, but not exactly warm.  The staff came back to check on you during the middle and end of the meal.  Finding chicken on the plate was not significant, but if someone had a food allergy, it could be a problem and indicates that the kitchen has an opportunity for improvement.  Since the floors are bare and there isn't much insulation, the noise level increases significantly as more people enter the restaurant.

I also noticed that the floor, particularly the hallway to the restroom, had water on the floor, a danger to guests.  Overall, I would recommend the pizzas over the sandwiches, unless you know going in that you're having a Californian interpretation of the sandwiches. 

Friday, December 2, 2011

Mosaic - California Cuisine, Forestville

6675 Front St, Forestville CA 95436
(707) 887-7503
Parking: in the front
http://www.mosaiceats.com/

Last Visited: March 9, 2007

Food: 3 stars
Atmosphere: 2 to 3 stars
Service: 2 stars
Price: $$$ to $$$$

Both Jim and Jeff gave Mosaic high praise when we talked about outstanding restaurants in the North Bay, so when I was driving through Forestville, I decided to stop on by. I had heard through the grapevine that the food quality was excellent and it would be a worthwhile place to check out. I walked in with little expectation, but hoped for fantastic food.

It was a little after 5pm on the Friday evening I visited, and I was surprised at the very cool reception we received. Most hostesses are ready to greet you with a friendly smile and perhaps engage in some small talk about your day. Although I don’t expect this at your local chain locations, for these higher end restaurants, it’s expected. This was definitely lacking. There was not even a ‘how are you?’ but we gave the hostess the benefit of the doubt figuring it was a bad day or that she needed some time to warm up. She brought us to our table and asked if we wanted Fiji still water, sparkling, or regular water flavored with cucumber slices. When we answered that we wanted regular water, she said okay. My dining companion then proceeded to the restroom, and upon returning, she told me that our hostess told the busser to bring us regular water in a not too happy tone. When I received the water, it had a refreshing cucumber flavor.

Few customers came into the facility during my time there. One was a regular so the hostess greeted him with a smile, but the other couple that arrived near the end of our meal was greeted with extremely friendly tones by the same hostess. She not only made small talk, but she spent some time at their table and chatted for a while. This all made me wonder – what was going on when we arrived? Why didn’t she do the same for us? Don’t get me wrong. With the number of restaurants I have visited, this was not the only point of service that dropped their rating, but it was certainly one that made me feel uneasy. I would say she spent a good 15 minutes with these strangers, and though I personally didn’t want to spend that much time on small talk this evening, a few of the same questions about the weather and general conversation would have been fine.

Mosaic is a pleasant orange peach color on the outside, and the planter boxes are studded with colorful flowers. Walking inside is like taking a vacation from Forestville’s small town feel and entering a warm room filled with earth tones. From the dark copper floors, the wood tables, and the muted colorful plates, the room seems to silently exclaim the warmth of fall etched by the onset of winter. Smooth lyrics in a soothing jazz plays on the sound system. From the main dining room, you can see a little into the kitchen, but the faces of the chefs are hidden by the opaque glass.

At each table, the planked table tops were topped with one tealight candle in a small container. Each place setting contained one large colored plate along with a black cloth napkin folded into a rectangle. The knife was placed between the tines of the fork laid in the middle of the napkin. A butter knife sits on top of the small square black plate to the left of each of these.

When our server arrived at our table, she greeted us with a friendly, “How are you guys tonight?” Although this was fine at first, she proceeded to ask if “us guys” needed anything. The continued use of this phrase was exhausted, considering there were no guys at the table at all. When paying a higher price at a nicer establishment, the use of “guys” really isn’t appropriate anymore, since we’re not at a local burger joint or the like. Her demeanor was also just fair, lacking the excellent qualities of a great server.

After ordering, we were given warm French bread. I love that. Warm bread is always good. The bread arrived covered in a napkin and a small black ceramic container held the soft butter. As we conversed, we found the table was wobbly and asked one of the staff members to fix it. This gentleman was probably the kindest during our whole visit. After almost half an hour, we had eaten all the bread and our meal had still not arrived. So that’s where another point of lacking service was noted. When there aren’t any starters ordered and there is a long wait for food (which was inexplicable considering we were the only people in the restaurant), then the server should check to see if the diners would like more bread. Unfortunately, during our wait, we could hear the loud conversation from the kitchen, studded with cuss words here and there. What is talked about in the kitchen should stay there. You should never hear an expletive from the kitchen while seated across the room. Mind you, it wasn’t a situation where they dropped a plate or another disaster occurred. The expletives wandered around the general kitchen conversation.

As our food arrived, we noticed the beautiful presentation. It’s bordering being over the top though.

- Beef Short Ribs – Slow braised short ribs are served over saffron-parmesan risotto and grilled asparagus on a square green plate. The short ribs were cooked in a red wine reduction and had a lot of flavor. The meat was tender and fell off the bone. This was placed on top of grilled baby asparagus and part of the saffron-parmesan risotto which had been placed vertically on the plate (parallel to the short ribs). On top of the items was a single chive that was diagonally placed over everything. The spears of the asparagus were aimed toward the corner of the plate and fanned out. Although presentation was elegant, and the flavor of each item was nice, the combination of the flavors was a bit overwhelming, and I found that with each bite, everything seemed to get saltier. It’s unfortunate that the asparagus and risotto weren’t seasoned less heavily because that would have accented the short ribs even further. $29

- Halibut with raspberry sauce, gratin, baked baby yams, were plated on a round yellow plate. I’m not sure if it was a gratin, but the potato side item had good flavor and was not overwhelming. Of all the items on this plate, I enjoyed it the best. The three baby yams were placed on the side, with one opened up to reveal the gorgeous orange flesh. The halibut had been seared until golden brown on both sides and drizzled with raspberry sauce. Edible decoration was placed on top to add height. Although the fish was beautifully golden, the inside was a bit dry, especially as the meal continued. Even the raspberry sauce was not enough to counteract the gradual lack of moisture. Okay. $26

Unfortunately, I didn’t know until after my visit, that Mosaic’s signature dish is the Coffee Encrusted Filet Mignon. However, after my experience, I don’t think I’ll be going back to try it.

Mosaic’s motto is “Everything generously seasoned with passion and pride!” and certainly, I would agree that everything is generously seasoned – a little too much so for my palate. Individually, the items tasted good, but together, it became overwhelming rather than harmonious. The atmosphere was pleasant, but the service lacked friendliness and as we exited, though two people stood near the hostess station, nobody thanked us or greeted us as we left. An A for presentation, but only a fair experience overall.