Lemat - Ethiopian, Berkeley

3212 Adeline St, Berkeley CA 94703
(510) 430-2717
Parking: street parking
Hours: Daily Noon to 10pm
https://www.lemateats.com/

Last Visited: October 8, 2016

Food: 3 to 4 stars
Atmosphere: 4 stars
Service: 3 to 4 stars
Price: $$ to $$$

I remember my first Ethiopian dining experience from many years ago - it was in Berkeley at the Blue Nile.  In talking with the owner of Lemat, Gezu, he has informed me that Blue Nile was not so authentic - the injera bread (the bread that you see lining the plate in the photo below) at Blue Nile was made of a different kind of flour which results in a different texture than what is authentic.  Since then, I've enjoyed several Ethiopian and Eritrean dining experiences.

Full disclosure - since I know the owner and he was there to greet me, I may have had a different experience than other patrons, but it's fun to get an inside scoop from someone about what is truly authentic and what his favorite dishes are.

Enter Lemat and hear from Gezu and his wife about how this is as close to Ethiopian dining as it gets - the furniture and decor is similar to what you would find if you were dining in Ethiopia.  This renovated former tae kwan do studio has lots of wood and ceiling decorations.  Upon entering, the aroma may not be familiar, but you'll find that Lemat offers coffee roasting in house and the person roasting the beans will bring them around the space so that the scent permeates the air.  Don't worry though, it's not overpowering, but it's noticeably present. Honey wine and roasted coffee are specialties of the house. The restaurant is not just about food, but Gezu speaks with delight about how this is a venture to share the culture of Ethiopia.

There are two types of seats available in addition to the bar space.  Regular chairs and tables as well as tables and chairs as shown in the photo here are available to offer a more authentic experience. Utensils are not on the table, but are available upon request.

For me, dining at Lemat was a leisurely experience, so I would suggest budgeting more time for eating with your hands (especially if this is new to you) and for dining in general.

- Kitfo  - This dish was recommended by Gezu as one of his favorites.  My interpretation is that this is the Ethiopian version of steak tartare.  Known as an authentic tribal dish, the finely chopped beef is mixed with seasonings, purified butter, and cottage cheese.  The spice seems to get spicier with each bite if you don't move to another part of the entree.  It's shown on the top of the photo here and presented by turning over a bowl full of the kitfo.   The cheese gives it a richness that is notable with each bite. $15.95

- Lemat Meat Combo - This is a great way to try multiple dishes on one plate.  Five items are available with this combo - two vegetarian dishes and three meat dishes. The house salad is fresh and the vinegar in it cleanses the palate. On the left is doro wot, chicken stew (a chicken drumstick in this case), with a marinated egg.  Cooked low and slow, this stew tasted of sweet onions along with some chili spices.  It was a good way to offset the heat from the kitfo.  To the right of the chicken stew is tibs.  Lamb is sauteed with onion and other spices.  Gomen be'siga, collard greens, are seasoned with onion, garlic, and cardamom.  It reminded me of the greens you normally get at southern restaurants.  Lastly, the ye'siga wot, beef stew, completes this combination platter.  The beef is chopped and a bit hot and spicy.  Each of these items have a distinctly different flavor and it's a good way to try different items to know what you might order next time.  I liked the chicken best out of the three. $17.95

As Lemat is still very new, there are a few opportunities that I saw.  I would love to learn more about what is involved in an Ethiopian coffee ceremony - this could be made available through the menu and the website.  Also, to guide the dining experience, spending more time informing the regular patron about how dishes will be served or how to eat it would help those unfamiliar with Ethiopian food - perhaps this and more cultural info could be included in the menu just for fun.

Lemat offers an authentic and flavorful experience.  Discounts for Genentech employees and UC Berkeley students are available.