Bernard's Inn - French, Ridgefield, CT

Best: French food

20 West Lane, Ridgefield, CT 06877
(203) 438-8282
Parking: in rear parking lot
http://www.bernardsridgefield.com/

Last Visited: September 23, 2004

Food: 5 stars
Atmosphere: 4 to 5 stars
Service: 4 to 5 stars
Price: $$$$ to $$$$$

Bernard Bouissou and his wife Sarah own this lovely restaurant. Bernard, raised in the South of France, has worked at Le Cirque in New York and other restaurants in the New York area. Sarah is also a renowned chef who heads her own catering company.

I visited Bernard’s on a Thursday night, and they had two musicians playing live jazz. The setting is quaint and cozy, but the crowd is certainly different than the West Coast group. The patrons are definitely more dressed up than typical California style. The women wore their elegant black dresses, and the men were in full suits or at the least a suit jacket.

Upon entering, the piano is on your left at the entry of the main dining room. A large vase of flowers adorn the top of the piano. The walls are a warm yellow and the white crown molding accents the room. The burgundy carpet with the golden design on it follows the color scheme. Spring like colors are present in the pictures that hang on the wall. The tables are round and oval and the chairs have oval backs giving the room a soft feeling all around.

The host is formal, professional, and friendly, but I don’t think I saw him smile all evening. It’s a different culture than that of the West Coast. Upon arrival, after being seated, the servers offer still or sparkling water. The tables hold candles, fresh flower arrangements, and butter in small round ceramic containers. Once orders are taken, servers bring around warm rolls (we had a choice of sourdough or raisin) that are served to each individual. At each place setting, you’ll find large white plates with a large burgundy B so you’ll be sure not to forget where you’re dining.
The wine selection is extensive. There is a large selection of European wines, and interestingly enough, the others seem to be from the West Coast from wineries right in my neighborhood. All of the dishes are beautifully presented, and the food is served together so each person receives their dish at just about the same time.

The first starter was a bit of a surprise. I hadn’t expected it since we hadn’t ordered it.

- Smoked fish salad – A dollop of smoked white fish mixed with potatoes was placed in a small crisp shell with a base about the size of a quarter. This is laid on a fan of five green leaves that are drizzled with a light dressing. The fish was delicate and just the right amount of salt to bring out the flavor but not overpower it.

- Bernard’s Signature Foie Gras Trio: Grilled with Sour Cherry Sauce and Maple Syrup Glaze, Torchon with Sauterne Jelly, Smoked with Horseradish Aspic – Three pieces of foie gras are placed on a large oval plate. A salad of large alfalfa sprouts and other greens are tossed in a light dressing accompany the foie gras. Four triangles of brioche style toast are served on the side. The grilled foie gras with its cherry sauce and maple syrup glaze is soft, silky, and rich, melting in your mouth. The smoked and torchon style foie gras were very similar in texture – velvety, but firm. Although both were good, my appreciation of these latter two styles needs some honing since the two tasted about the same to me. To the veteran foie gras connoisseur, I’m sure the flavors would be more distinct. $19.50

- Sautéed Frog’s Legs Provençale, Roasted Garlic Flan, Sautéed Salsify, Chanterelles and Fava Beans, Salsify Twists – Frog’s legs are served around garlic flan which is placed in the center of the plate. The coloring from the fresh herbs and fava beans give this dish an element of freshness. I only tried a couple frog’s legs and a bit of the garlic flan. The flan is delicate, but the garlic is definitely infused in it. The frog’s legs are tender, reminding me of the same tenderness of fish without the flaky texture. The legs are nicely flavored. Although the texture was smooth, I found the flan a bit too rich, overwhelming the individual elements of the dish. $14.00

- Marinated Tuna Tartar and Avocado Roll, Tomatoes, Sherry Coulis, Baby Greens and Sprouts. Raw tuna is diced and covered with sliced avocado resulting in a presentation like a mound of green. I didn’t try the other items on the plate, but the pairing results in a melt in your mouth experience. The tuna is lightly seasoned and the avocado is smooth. Excellent. $15.00

- Grilled Lamb chops with herbed couscous and sautéed seasonal vegetables – For this special of the day, four lamb chops are grilled to perfection. A mound of couscous and sautéed zucchini, yellow squash, and other vegetables accompany the lamb. The lamb chops were tender and flavored nicely. The portion is more than adequate. After enjoying the numerous starters, the couscous seemed bland, though on its own, its flavor might have held its own. The lamb chops shine above the side dishes so much that I would have liked for the lamb chops to be available by themselves. Very good. $32

Pastry Chef Catherine Laughlin does a very nice job with the desserts. From crème brulee trios to napoleons, there is enough variety to satisfy just about anyone’s palate. Another surprise - to begin the dessert course, the table received stands of cookies with such a pleasant looking assortment. I call it pleasant looking because I only had enough room to try a part of a large lemon wafer which was light and crisp. The cookies were available in chocolate and nut varieties as well.

Summer Melon Sorbet, Fresh Diced Melon and Lemon Grass Sauce with Orange Meringue Crisps – Two triangles of orange meringue crisps sandwich three melon ball size scoops of sorbet. Two scoops were cantaloupe and one scoop was watermelon. The sorbet flavors are so clear and distinct, they would be refreshing enough to stand on their own without the meringue crisps. Diced melon and lemon grass sauce surround the crisp. I would have liked to have sorbet available on its own without the decorations. $9.00

The overall experience was enjoyable. If you’re like me and like to try a lot of different dishes, then you may find the portions to be a bit on the large side. If you like having your one entrée, then the portion is just right. I liked the special touches of the smoked fish salad and plate of cookies; both were nice surprises. The service at Bernard’s is attentive and it’s a great place to go to feel pampered. I highly recommend Bernard’s.