Thursday, March 24, 2011

Cheung Chau Island, Hong Kong

Last Visited: 2008

Cheung Chau is an island southwest of Hong Kong and accessible by ferry from the Central District. It looks a bit like a dumbbell in its shape and has acquired the nickname 'dumbbell island.' The photo here shows only a portion of the island, specifically, the area where this restaurant was found.

Visiting these islands off the coast of Hong Kong is always fun. Every time I go back, I try to go to an island that I haven't visited before. The islands typically feature a more rural lifestyle, a slower pace, and exceptional seafood - both fresh and dried. Many local Hong Kong residents come for a getaway from the hustle and bustle of busy life in Central.

Youths visit to get a taste for what camping, hiking, and beach life are like. I remember telling my cousins that one of my chores was to prune the tree in our backyard, and my cousin was shocked that we had our own tree. Here, trees are abundant, and so is sand - and with that, comes tourists. The shoreline is often lined with restaurants featuring open seafood tanks. These pictures show clams and fish drying on baskets. The shrimp paste in fried rice here is delicious. Unlike the salty dishes you might find in a restaurant at home or in a bottle back in the states, this is so full flavored without tasting fishy. While most of the restaurants don’t have an English name listed outside, you can look for the building based on the photo. You pretty much can’t go wrong – the island is so small that any place with a bad reputation probably won’t last very long, so more than likely, the only thing to take into consideration is the price of seafood – since it’s so incredibly fresh, and usually quite large in size, it may be somewhat more expensive than what you would find in Hong Kong itself.

We tried several dishes for our lunch visit. It was a pretty substantial meal for five people.  The sizes are not enormous, but we were also saving room for dessert.
- Fried Rice with Shrimp Paste – This dish is absolutely delicious. It might sound odd, and if you were to try to make it at home with the shrimp paste that you find in the United States, you’ll probably say it’s much too salty. However, on the islands, this dish is fabulous – so full flavored, tasting of shrimp, and yet, you don’t see the shrimp at all. I would liken it to an Asian version of dirty rice, where it’s the shrimp paste that gives the dirty appearance and the flavor. Go to any of the nearby islands in Hong Kong and order this. You’ll be pleased.
- Fresh Shrimp Boiled in its shell – Super fresh, you don’t do much with the shrimp except boil it and serve with a sweetened soy sauce that contains jalapeno and pepper slices. And yes, the head stays on the body during the cooking process to preserve the juices. Yummy! Plus, some people like to suck on the shrimp brains.

- Salted Chicken with Ginger and Green Onion dipping sauce – This is a fairly standard dish no matter where you are. I thought it was good, but nothing special.


- Steamed Scallops in the shell with Garlic – This is another one of my favorites! Chopped garlic (usually the type you find in a jar) is spooned on top of fresh scallops and steamed with some glass noodles. The glass noodles absorb the moisture and sauce from the scallops during the steaming process. The scallop shell acts as a natural holder for all of the juices. While you may not be kissing anyone after eating this, it’s fantastic!

When visiting the island of Cheung Chau, you’ll appreciate seeing the contrast of life in Hong Kong from ages past right next to modern technology (cell phones, televisions, laptops). However, the food and the fresh air are great things to be enjoyed here. Be sure to try some delicious shrimp paste fried rice and steamed seafood. Also, enjoy some of the scenery. A lot of people enjoy a swim or go for a bike ride along the waterfront. It's a great place for a relaxing holiday. Lastly, look for the little shops that sell sweet tofu and black sesame dessert. They're a nice treat to balance out your savory meal.

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