Friday, June 3, 2011

Swan Oyster Depot - Seafood, San Francisco

Best: Seafood, Clam Chowder

1517 Polk St, San Francisco CA 94109
(415) 673-1101
Parking: street parking
Hours: Mon to Sat 8am to 5:30pm

Last Visited: 2008
Food: 5 stars
Atmosphere: 4 stars
Service: 4 stars
Price: $$ to $$$$ (note that the listed prices here are from 2008)

Oh how I love this place - let me count the ways! Swan Oyster Depot was recommended to me by Hank. It has been an institution amongst San Franciscans since 1912 when the Danish first opened it. Around the middle of the 1900s, an Italian family purchased Swan’s, and it has been run by members of this family since.

Reputation has it that there is ALWAYS a long line outside the door during meal times. Today was no exception as I waited almost 50 minutes for lunch this Saturday afternoon. Avoid meal times for faster seating. Also, take public transportation or bring a buddy to hold your place in line as someone goes and feeds the meter.

When you see the fresh seafood in the window, you’ll know why there is a line. Beautiful octopus and calamari sit in the window on ice along with fresh whole salmon, shrimp, prawns, crab, scallops, and cut fish. Swan’s sells items for retail sale and take out too.

There are about 19 counter spaces in this crowded little store. Each person feels like family when you dine with these charmers. They are a casual bunch – all male – at least during my visit with a large age range. These folks are the ones taking your order, shucking your clams and oysters, and making those wonderful salads. Swan’s has found their niche and stuck with it – and being themselves has kept them in business all of these years.


Upon our arrival, we sat on the stools at the counter right in front of the seafood case and clam shucking station. The stools vary in height, so don’t expect the most comfortable seating – you’re in here for the experience and the food. If you expect to be sitting comfortably sipping wine for a few hours, you’re not in the right place. If you want a taste of San Francisco, this is a great place to be. We were asked about what we wanted to drink and given a few minutes to take a look at the menu listed on the wall. Also on the wall are various posters depicting crabs and lobsters, small barrels, and an eclectic collection of years of photos, trinkets, and more.

The menu includes seafood cocktails, salads, oysters and clams on the half shell, clam chowder, cracked crab, and drinks. If you’re a bit indecisive or want to try one item before ordering the next, the staff is friendly and happy to let you think about what you want to get. They go help another customer and return when you’re ready. It’s great – so low key and casual that despite the long lines outside, they never rush you within.

- Clam Chowder – I started with a cup of clam chowder. First, I was given a plate of bread and butter. It’s great San Francisco French bread – crusty on the outside, soft on the inside – perfect with seafood. The chowder was then brought to me and it was rich and creamy. This was delicious from the first spoonful to the last. Potatoes, clams, and a wonderful fish stock made this creamy white chowder melt in my mouth. Without thickening agents and with a taste of the sea, this cup or bowl is perfection. Oyster crackers are available on the counter, but it’s terrific with the bread. A must have. Five stars. $2.50 cup/$4.75 bowl

- Oysters – Kumamoto, Drakes Bay, Bluepoint, and Miyagi were offered today. Served on the half shell over ice, we ordered a variety of these oysters. They first shuck them onto a plate and then reserve the juices to put back in the half shell before placing on a chilled platter containing ice. Lemon wedges are available in a communal bowl on the counter. We also received a small bowl of cocktail sauce – sweet and just a little tangy, but I preferred the mignonette as the accompaniment with my oysters. The Kumamotos were my favorite with their plump nature, but all were just wonderful. More freshness from the sea. Delicious. Another must have. $8.50 per half dozen

- Crab Louie Salad – Swan’s offers salads with shrimp only, crab only, prawns only, combination, and lobster. I opted for the crab salad which is served with shredded lettuce topped with louie dressing, and an abundant quantity of crab. This salad easily serves two people if you enjoy some other items. The amount of crab is incredible. This is one of the few places where you might say – I need more lettuce because there’s too much crab. More than ten crab claws are placed on top of a mound of crab meet. The louie dressing is creamy and the flavor is light so it doesn’t overpower the crab or other seafood. The lettuce is very fresh and crispy. Another five star item. $15.75

- Calamari Salad - Fresh calamari is cut right in front of you and cured with olive oil and diced red onions.  The calamari has a perfect texture and every bite is scrumptious!  Terrific.

If you’re brave, you can have clams on the half shell. The Cherrystones looked meaty, and there is plenty of smoked fish – smoked salmon, trout, or white fish that is available with salad. You can also have octopus salad too. Each item is extremely fresh and Swan’s is generous in its portions.

Be sure to bring cash since Swan’s doesn’t accept credit cards. Enjoy the delicious eats, the vibe of the servers and the crowd, and have a delightfully entertaining experience. And if you don’t have much time, they are fast for preparing take out items. Just skip to the front of the line and go to the counter. Great seafood six days a week.

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